If you are reading this, you probably have purchased a new Motorola sb6141 SURFboard modem
(white model) and it has started to drop its connection and keeps rebooting.
I fixed the problem and hope this can fix yours as well.
The re-sync/cycle down/restart/boot/connection process is normal once in a blue moon when various problems occur and the modem needs to reset connection. That being said, two to eight times a day is too many.
I purchased the very same modem and for 8 months it worked perfectly, then started dropping its connection and basically, cycled down or restarted and went through the SB6141 boot/connection process, trying to reconnect to the internet.
The problem was very hard to replicate and very hard to trace because it was happening frequently five to eight times a day and there was no actual event that would trigger the restart/boot/connection process.
The restart/boot/connection process would happen when all computers connected heavy workload, no computers connected, no computers on, even when nothing was connected at all except for the direct coaxial cable ISP provider line.
After many calls to cable ISP provider, not much help, I figured it was the wireless router.
Replaced wireless router with top of the line Asus RT-AC68U dual band wireless router.
Same problems exactly.
Many calls to Arris yielded absolutely nothing and quite honestly, they are very rude.
After scouring every broadband cable forum about the very same subject led me to notice that my "Downstream Power Levels" were pretty high:
Downstream Power Levels:
- the stated working range is: -15 to +15
- cable company said that the levels really should be between: -6 to+6
- Arris said they should be as close to 0 as possible and the further away, in either direction, the worse it would be and the modem will reset, depending on ISP.
- my levels were anywhere from +3 to +9, changing constantly and sporadically.
- I have fixed the problem and now have "Downstream Power Levels" of ... " 0 "
- And NEVER a dropped connection.
So here is what I did to fix it, I am not saying to do it and if you do so, it is at your own risk.
Always, when in doubt call your ISP and have them do it for you.
I assume no responsibility here, I am just providing you with the information that fixed my problem.
Please read the information through completely before deciding to fix your set up.
1.) Check for the Newest Firmware Version:
- Type, click or copy and paste http://192.168.100.1 into your web browsers URL
Click on the "Help" tab and the information should be at the top left of the page.
the newest SB6141 firmware version as of today February 19, 2014:
Model Name: SB6141
Vendor Name: Motorola (now Arris)
Firmware Name: SB_KOMODO-220.127.116.11-SCM00-NOSH
Boot Version: PSPU-Boot(25CLK) 18.104.22.168m3
Hardware Version: 7.0
Firmware Build Time: Mar 12 2013 17:48:19
- If yours is not this one ask you ISP provider to "PUSH" the newest firmware to your modem.
- That is the only way to get the new firmware. Don't even bother trying to find it another way.
- If the ISP tech does not know how or says they can not do this;
ask for someone else or call back later and try again.I had to call 4 times until someone knew how to or would do it.
2.) Check Cables, Splitters All Connections. (unplug your modem and cable boxes)
I replaced everything. You may or may not have to do this or you may not be able to
but, an ISP tech can and will do it for you for a fee.
- Check for any unnecessary / extra splitters, get rid of any extra splitters.
- Check cables for anything, kinks, rips, rusty connectors extensions etc. replace anything that looks suspicious.
- Check to make sure all cables are marked at least RG6. Replace any that are not RG6 with new RG6 cables.
3.) Direct Connections
- Make sure that your connection from the cable drop (from street) is going directly to your house.
Meaning from the cable drop (street) to your home, no splitters, extra short cables etc.
- Usually the cable drop is going to be connect to a grounded connector of some kind,
sometimes just a grounded piece of metal between connections and even a
grounded Coax Ground Block Connector that kind of looks like a splitter, leave those alone.
- We want to connect to that cable drop whether it is Coax Ground Block Connector or just a grounded piece of metal .
- There is usually only the drop (from street) connected (Cable A) and then another connector as well for the cable (Cable B) that would be connecting and going into your house (Cable B).
- Here is where you would make sure there are no extra splitters from the Coax Ground Block Connector connected to (Cable B) and that (Cable B) is the only line going into your home.
- Trace the line and make sure it is the only line going to wherever your modem is, no splitters just (Cable B) straight from the outside connection to wherever your modem is.
4.) New Splitter, Connecting to your modem (unplug your modem)
- If possible, purchase a "Coaxial RF Directional Coupler" (also known as"a non loss tap") superior to splitters, the line to the modem would lose very little power but they are expensive.
- I DID NOT use "Coaxial RF Directional Coupler" the first time and it worked perfectly fine.
I used a "Monster Cable 2GHz 2 port splitter" (I know Monster Cable products are known to be bad)
- Connect (Cable B) to the "IN" on the "Monster Cable 2GHz 2 port splitter".
- Connect a short coaxial cable to "Power Pass OUT" and the other end to your modem.
5.) Connecting to your Cable/TV
- If you only have 1 modem and 1 cable box you can now just connect a cable to the other out of the
"Monster Cable 2GHz 2 port splitter" and run that cable to your Cable box/TV and you are done.
- For Multiple Cable Boxes and TVs:
- Depending on your set up, you would now connect a cable to the other out of the "Monster Cable 2GHz 2 port splitter" and then connect that cable to:
- *possibly to a "10dB signal amplifier".
(if your cable boxes are really far from the Monster Cable 2GHz 2 port splitter you would need the 10dB signal amplifier or you have a lot of cable boxes spread out)
- and/or then connect that cable from the "10dB signal amplifier" to another splitter with the exact number of cable boxes or TVs you are connecting to and Then run the lines from that splitter to your cable boxes and/or TVs .
- If the new splitter has more outputs than you are using you will need to buy "Coaxial LineTerminator" caps. they just screw into the unused out ports of the splitter to prevent line signal loss.
*you may be able to use a "Powered Coaxial Amplifier" so you would not need the 10db signal amplifier, that is untested by me.